Travel In the Time of Covid

To travel, especially internationally, in the time of covid takes dedication and patience. Each country you visit is ruled by politicians who, even if we are generous of them, are simply overwhelmed by the covid, their lack of options, previous failed policies, and the fear that their actions have created in their own public. But life and travel must go on.

The first hurdle one must face is the ever-changing restrictions and rules regarding covid that can change literally day by day. Watching the news in the U.K. and speaking with locals, there seems to be a consensus that the pols and medical “experts” don’t really know what to do. At least in the U.K., the pols “urge” citizens to isolate as much as possible as any mandate would be deadly (remember, their pols live in a parliamentary system which can react much more quickly than ours). Yes, wear face masks (even as they admit they are not much use), but just act like adults and get your shots. As an example:

 To get on our flight to London, we needed to complete a “Passenger Locator Form” for the U.K. government. This form included the information on a covid test that we had to take during the first two days upon landing which included information on a test which we had to purchase online. The result could take up to two days for completion and one is expected to self-isolate in the interim. As we were only going to be in London for three days, that was a poor option, so we paid extra for a test with results in a few hours. All the lab had to do was to deliver the test to us when we landed, which of course, they failed to do. Now you might ask, why take a test after one lands as if you are covid-positive, the potential damage is greater, but then you don’t understand the bureaucratic mind. So, we paid about $200 for the fast test which of course, was not waiting for us. As the test was not waiting for us upon arrival, we decided to visit a local pharmacy and pay $250 each for a fast test (so much for the National Health Service and free medical coverage). Yes, the original ordered test did arrive near the end of day two would have given us results after we left. Ver helpful. We did return the late test package and are getting a refund. To add insult to injury, the crack customs people did not ask to see our proof of the ordered test but quickly welcomed us in the country.

That was our beginning as three days before our flight, the U.K. decided we needed a covid test within two days of our departure (at least that made sense). Fortunately, our local CVS was able to give us the test and provide the results withing twenty-four hours. Well, at least we were able to board the plane and we were on our way.

Upon landing and being waved through customs, we drew some funds from our bank account via ATM, (a better rate than using the local exchange service), and instead of taking the “tube” to London (which takes about an hour), we decided that after a nine-hour flight we would spend a few pounds more and take the Heathrow express which got us to London in only fifteen minutes.  Worth the money!

The first real Brit we came across was a taxi driver (we only use taxis in London as they are professional, and one never needs to worry about being run around). On our last visit, two years ago, there was a movement to convert all taxis to electric, even though with the energy grid at that time, only about twenty-four percent of the taxis could be in service at one time. Our first taxi was one of the non-EV vehicles, so I asked the driver about the EV goals. He pointed out that the new EVs cost about $100,000 plus tax, that there was no real progress regarding recharging stations (only London, one of thirty-three separate councils had committed to the investment), and he had no plans to switch. Another driver, one who had an EV loved his vehicle due to 1) adequate air conditioning and 2) he was saving about $1600/month in fuel costs. The only problem so far, was, surprise, the difficulty of finding a charging station. It appears that there is no rush to the turnover due to the large cost to the drivers and the lack of funds to plan out not only the charging stations, but the infrastructure to supply the power (anyone who has visited the U.K. knows that solar is not the wave of the future).

As is our own self-made tradition, the first full day in London started with a brisk walk to get a shave at Trumper & Co. off Jermyn Street. Jermyn street is the men’s fashion street (not to be confused with Savile Row) where you can find the likes of Turnbull & Asser, Hilditch & Key, and others, although now trending toward quantity as opposed to quality. Just walking the street (and looking at the statue of Beau Brummel) is a treat as the Brits always have those wonderful shirt/tie combos that you never see in the U.S.

Back to my shave, I had the best straight edge shave ever this time and I must give credit to Philip, the gentleman who performed so beautifully. His touch was so light which he credited to the craftsman who taught him, “one of the old fellows,” over a decade before. If you want a real treat, be sure to schedule a shave, ask for David and you will have a wonderful start to your day!

Afterwards, my wife and I went to Fortum & Mason for a typical British breakfast (bangers, cold toast, blood sausage, etc.) so we really felt we were in the groove. As our time in London was short, we walked the arcades off Piccadilly and headed to Harrods which always does such a wonderful job of decorating, especially during the Christmas holidays. One of our favorite areas in Harrods is the Food Court, a complex of several rooms, each one entirely or partially dedicated to prepared dishes of fish, meat, desserts, etc. I believe many Brits go there simply to dream of purchasing some of the fantastic meals, etc. We also went to the champagne bar (as it was near noon) for a glass of bubbly and a smattering of caviar, shrimp, and other goodies.

A word to the wise; plan! I tried two weeks before our arrival to arrange for an afternoon tea and several of the finest locations, but everything was booked! The Goring, Dorchester, Ritz, and others are all popular with tourists and locals alike so don’t wait until the last minute. The same is true for dinner; reservations are necessary at most restaurants. I was able to secure at table at Ognisko, an Anglo-Polish restaurant which opened during WWII. The food and service were excellent and made up for our decision not to have a dinner at The Connaught (which can easily run five-hundred dollars for a couple). But we did enjoy a martini or two at their bar, the Coburg.

Regarding cigars:  As one would expect, with so many cutbacks in service due to the pandemic, this area has also suffered. The cigar room at Claridge’s has been closed and the new cigar room at The Connaught has not yet opened. Cigar smoking is really a mark of the more affluent in the U.K. and I have had working men kid me on the street about being a capitalist while they are just working stiffs. When that happens, feel free to had them a cigar and watch them lighten up!

What about the general mood of the U.K.? They have an embattled Prime Minister, Covid and a National Health Service that is failing. The general mood, in my opinion, from speaking to individuals, reading, and watching the news, etc., (over a period of two weeks) is that the average Brit is fed up with their equivalent of our Fauci; the Sunday Times had a column which stated that the nation with the NHS has to end a “regrettable failure” and another column said that their Dr. Fauci had proven to have been “monumentally wrong”. Confidence in the leadership and policies is, nil and it is easy to understand; let me give you an example: while watching the BBC, a health professional was talking about the new variant which was in the U.K. for about three weeks. To the left of the speaker on the screen, was a bullet point that said that 200,000 new cases were being found each day. At the same time, below the speaker was another bullet point which stated that there were 67,000 new cases for the day. The speaker said there were ten (10) people admitted to the hospitals for the new variant and then said that one person had died from the new strain. All the while, the pols were going back and forth as to whether to lock down, not lock down, etc. The pols and health professionals are on the horns of a dilemma as they can only try to implement policies which have been proven failures except in the realm of causing greater financial and psychological damage. If the new strain spreads faster but is less deadly as a few say, certainly no one in authority will risk saving as much. You must wonder at any politician who says he/she will end the pandemic (do we know anyone like that?).

We spoke with a Brit ex-pat who is now living in Portugal and running a successful business. He left the U.K. about a dozen years ago due to the taxes, governmental regulations, etc. which made it difficult to run a business. His children are still in the U.K. but having a grim time saving up to purchase a house, etc. Compared to the U.K., life is quite simple, business is easy to do, and he has no intention of going back “home.” His comments were like the ones we heard whenever we mentioned life and politics (including from the flight attendants on our flight to the U.K.!). Sounds like someone who has left a blue state for a red state.

SAILING THE DEEP BLUE SEA

From London we went to Somerset to board the Queen Mary II for a cruise across the Atlantic. The ship is a true ocean liner as opposed to a cruise ship; over 1,000 feet in length, and starting out at 75,000 tons, its bow is reinforced to withstand the pressures of the North Atlantic winters. We had previously taken the cruise from NY to the U.K., but it was not during the winter months. plus, we wanted to see if the scenery was any different (that is a joke). Specifically designed to manage the 3–6-meter waves which are the norm while traveling at twenty knots, one gains a new understanding of the ocean when you are sitting at a window and see waves as tall as a two-story house go by you for hours on end.

A few tips about travel on a ship like the QM II.

1. Due to covid, check in took three hours instead of the usual hour; each passenger had to take a covid test (our third in five days) and the testing was simply overwhelmed by the approximately 2,000 passengers showing up a one time. It is simply something one must be prepared to manage.
2. The guests on a ship like the QM II tend to be older and there are few children. It really is not a “family” friendly cruise.
3. If you want to bring your dog (for what purpose I do not know), good luck. Pets must be kept in a kennel and the kennels are booked at least six months in advance.

One of the treats on the QM II is the Churchill cigar lounge. Sheldon, the manager runs a tight shop (attendees say it is much better than on the QE II or even the Victoria); he allows no cigarette smokers in the room (ok in the Commodore Lounge beyond the Churchill doors), knows his cigars (sorry, no Cubans this trip) and knows who to serve any drink, especially the cognacs, Armagnacs, etc. It is a wonderfully quiet corner that because of the smoking of cigars, keeps most people at bay. Nothing is finer than a good cigar and beverage after dinner with a bonus of enjoyable conversation. Sheldon welcomes anyone throughout the day, so it is an excellent retreat.

Eating on board is a treat with excellent buffets and regular restaurants. If you want a treat, for an extra charge, have dinner at the Veranda which is a steak house but one unlike what you would expect. Luis, who is the manager, runs a fine dining house that happens to specialize in steak. A tip to the wise, the QM II offers some nice packages, and one includes a dinner for two at the Veranda restaurant, a welcoming bottle of good Presco, plus a tasty cake for your room all for a price just slightly above their price for a bottle of champagne. Shop the website for their specials.

You normally sign up for either an early (6PM) seating or late (8PM) seating and can choose to have a table for two, four, etc. Depending on your class of booking (Britannia, Princess or Queen), there is a restaurant for your class. The more you pay, the better the menu but even the basic (Britannia) offers choices such as Beef Wellington, venison, escargot, and so on, so you do not need to feel deprived. Or you can enjoy the buffet which as a wide selection of meats, fish, as well as two types of potatoes, stir fry, Italian, Indian dishes and more. Much more casual but you can zero in on your taste of the time. Another buffet has several types of pizza and pastas. Quite acceptable.

To keep you occupied, there are normally three daily lectures covering various subjects (one on the design and building of the ship was excellent as was the one on the spice trade and how it impacted human history), plus an excellent gym (to work off all your eating), areas for card games, and of course, numerous nooks for quiet reading. The QM II has the largest library afloat so you should be able to find something to amuse you.

Sorry, no water slides, climbing walls (given the age of many guests, which would be scary), but plenty of time to unwind, catch up on reading, have an occasional glass of champagne and feel disconnected from the world. Yes, you can get the internet (for a price), but you rapidly realize that much of what you thought was important seems to drift away as you focus on doing as little as possible. The world is still out there and continues without your vital input and you know in a few days you will be back in the battle, but for now, let it go on without me.

 The trip was excellent until the day before our arrival in New York harbor; everyone had to take a covid test (our fourth in two weeks) and sure enough, yours truly tested positive; no symptoms or tiredness, but both my wife and I were isolated on the ship (we requested separate rooms as she did not test positive). I was condemned to ten days in isolation in a Holiday Inn in Brooklyn while Carolyn was able to fly back to L.A., promising that I would return to every food treat I could imagine. But the story of the isolation is for a different story to be coming shortly.

Was the trip worth it? Yes, there were tests to take, forms to complete, masks to be worn at silly times, and of course the final test of being positive. It could be a hassle, but Carolyn and I are determined to live our lives and not surrender to either the covid or the often, silly dictates of politicians and others who seem to either be foolish or sinister (as one Brit said, “perhaps a bit of both”). It was great to see London, to hear the accents, to talk with other nationals and to be a part of the world. There are a couple of things that have come through loud and clear:

1. People the world over desire get back more control of their own lives, and,
2. There is increasing mistrust and skepticism of governments ability to function in a way that rewards those who produce

Let us all continue to move forward regardless of the obstacles in our paths.