As Europe has been closed for quite a while (glad it is opening), Carolyn and I have taken four short trips in the U.S. this year; New Orleans, one to Las Vegas and Utah, another to Williamsburg VA and we have just returned from Miami (in July? Are you nuts)? Well, I had a free trip from a company and decided it was an excellent opportunity to revisit some haunts that we have not seen in a number of years.
Now summer is not exactly the primo time for visiting Miami; it is hot, humid, subject to hurricanes and can be quite buggy. Aside from that, it is terrific. So, we decided to make the best of it, and we stayed at the beautiful Ritz Carlson in Coconut Grove, just a block from the bay. The hotel only had about 25% of its staff and was 30% full, so it was great; the staff was friendly, no hassles about getting pool time, etc. Dewey, one of the front door men was a fount of information and tips on sites to see, restaurants, etc. He made getting back into the Miami mindset easy and fun! A real pro! He was not alone, as the friendliness of Geovanny, Evan, Pilar and many others made us feel right at home. Of course, the hotel itself is beautiful but there are numerous interesting places to stay in Coconut Grove, which is a small island of nice shops, restaurants, etc. without the glitter of South Beach. Think of a warm, smaller Carmel. Plus, it is in easy reach of some of the wonderful places to visit, such as:
Little Havana: About an easy fifteen-minute drive from CG, the main part is about four blocks in length. Tours of gawking tourists are herded by guides who explain the migration, customs, etc. of the expat community which has become hugely pro-American (funny how those who have lived in other countries appreciate what we offer better than some born here). We ate at a restaurant called Sala’o (recommended by Dewey) and they have a great menu of local cocktails that set up nicely for very good food. As is the case in many areas, you tend to see fewer vodkas on display and more rums, mixers, etc. The local drinks can be deceptive (sweet but strong), so I stick to a martini as I know what I am getting. I asked about smoking a cigar after lunch and they quickly set up a nice table outside where we were able to enjoy a cigar (from next store) and some liquid refreshment while watching the world go by. No one minded, in fact the couple next to us both enjoyed their cigars; it is part of the culture and not one dirty look (very adult) as cigars are a part of the culture. I went across the street and picked up some local cigars and must give you a warning; these are not your typical smokes; I suggest that you not smoke one on an empty stomach as the buzz you shall receive is powerful. Wonderful.
An Accidental Visit: On the way to a side trip, we accidently drove into the area around the Surfside condominium tragedy, in fact, we were on the street directly behind the buildings. All around were various emergency command vehicles, an area set up by the Billy Graham organization, a memorial put in place by locals, relatives, and the emergency workers. We saw the huge pile of rubble and it was so moving to see the workers who were clearing the rubble in line to see the memorial; they took off their hard hats and you could see the tears roll down their faces. They were working so hard in the heat and humidity, and I hate to think of what they saw when they found a victim. Thank you for your huge efforts!
Vizcaya: Just before World War I, when the population of Miami was 10,000, James Deering had 1,000 workers working for two years to build his winter retreat and named it Vizcaya. The original design was built around several key rooms which he purchased in Europe and shipped to the building site. One room was from an 18th century Italian villa, another was from a French chateau. Filled with European antiques and surrounded by a marshy jungle (we saw a crocodile resting peacefully on the edge of an overgrown canal), it is like stepping back in time both in terms of European history and in how the wealthy use to enjoy their wealth, by building something of beauty. It is an excellent museum, one which is worth visiting every time we visit the area.
The Keys: The Keys are thought of in terms of Sidney Greenstreet hiding out as he attempts to escape, or because of Jimmy Buffet’s song (recorded about a place in Texas). It does have an aura of a place to go if you want to disappear and driving along a road where the ocean is about one foot lower than your road does create a certain mindset. But there is much to do in the Keys, such as numerous boat tours, snorkeling, deep sea fishing, etc. If you are not sure that you want to drive all the way to the end of the Keys which is Key West (about three ½ hours), a shorter drive to Key Largo (1 ¼ hours) will give you a good taste. Key Largo has grown up and your Walgreens and Arby’s are fully recognizable and available but it still retains some of the “end of the world” flavor. We were lucky as we stopped at 11:30 AM at The Fish House and was greeted by Kara. She decided twenty-one years ago to leave teaching (as she said, “leave the stress, kids and parents”) for a job with less stress and more pay and it was clear that she still is happy with her decision. The fish is fresh and served with a great combination of spices that make this a “destination” restaurant. On our next visit we may spend a night or two in Key Largo; I bet The Fish House is a fun place at night!
Bits and Pieces: The entire Miami area is a foodie’s heaven; be it ethnic, fresh fish or whatever, it is hard to get a bad meal. Although we did not make it to the well-known Joe’s Stone Crab or The Forge, we did find Garcia’s (again, thanks to Dewey) which is on the Miami river right next to where the fishing boats bring their loads. It has outdoor seating, and you can watch motorboats and seventy-food cabin cruises as you feast on the freshest of fishes. In fact, the fish is so good that even when we made a quick trip to Boca Raton, we had fish at Luff’s Fish House were the meal and staff were all great. After this trip, we shall be more adventurous when we cook fish.
Unlike LA, Miami has weather. We hit part of the hurricane season but from our eighth-floor room, we were able to watch the storm clouds (not hurricane in force) march in along with the lightening and thunder from the sea. Yet, the locals seem to accept it and I felt like a tourist going out for a morning walk with an umbrella while the locals walked and jogged even in the rain.
The entire Miami area is alive and growing. The government seems to be well thought of and with at least an image of common sense. The entire state of Florida has a population about 2.5 times larger than New York City but has a budget of only $3 billion more than just NYC ($101.5B vs $98B). Makes one wonder where the money goes when in Gotham.
This was our fourth trip within the US this year and we are reminded how beautiful our land is; mountains, desert, swamps, forests, we have it all. We found that most people are doing their best and it is easy to find a friendly smile everywhere. Our trips reaffirmed out love of our land. Hope you will be able to get out and enjoy it!
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